#SPLIT RIVET PEENING TOOL CRACK#

If you cut too short, it can be impossible to peen the rivet without driving it back through the burr. You CAN cut too long and it still work, but you'll end up with a very tall dome on the peened rivet. Like others said, appropriate trim height is critical.

This in turn pushes all the layers of leather in directions you didn't want them going, misaligns other holes that were lined up, and makes it nearly impossible to get a nicely peened head. When you've got that much mushy stuff between the flat part of the rivet and the burr, if you start peening aggressively right off the bat, you're going to cause the rivet to bend in the middle. Some of my rivets end up going through 3 layers of 13 oz. I use nothing but copper rivets to assemble my products. I have a piece of 1/4 inch steel that is about 12 inches square that I usually use under my copper stuff. you are literally forming the little ball on top of the rivet above the washer. The domed impression is where you make the pretty little ball on top of the rivet.

#SPLIT RIVET PEENING TOOL CRACK#

the force needed to dome the rivet correctly will crack your marble slab. then lay you work on a solid metal plate. peen it a little bit with a small ball peen hammer to get it started. snip off the extra copper with a pair of side cutters. The hole sets the copper washer down on the rivet. Look in the end of it you will see a hole on the left and a domed impression on the right. The tool on the right is the copper rivet setter I use and it works fantastically. It is really hard to use for copper rivets. The rivet setter and anvil on the left in the picture is made for little metal capped rivets and is often given away inside big bags of Tandy rivets. I suspect you are using a tool not really designed for copper rivets.

Split rivet peening tool